Scottoiler

[Mattso]

Hi guys!
Thanks everyone for your kind words and feedback. The ABR site was down for me for the last 12 hours so I'm a bit late with my reply.
Again, if you have any questions please let me know. If you want your local dealer to stock Scottoiler products they are available from all major wholesalers.

Thanks
Matt

[PaulinBont]

Hi guys!
Thanks everyone for your kind words and feedback. The ABR site was down for me for the last 12 hours so I'm a bit late with my reply.
Again, if you have any questions please let me know. If you want your local dealer to stock Scottoiler products they are available from all major wholesalers.

Thanks
Matt

A BOGOF offer now and again at M and P would go down well (thumbs)

Muck-Off often do it :whistle:

[threepot]

Hi Mattso,just read your 'about me' info,just to see what bike you ride,and noticed your from Glasgow. Then 'previous adventures'....Glasgow!!!! Then I realised you started your adventure IN Glasgow!!! :whistle: I thought it can't be that big?? Looked nice when I rode thru last July (thumbs)

Anyway,back on the subject,I'm thinking of getting one? Do any of you use old engine oil?? Its only a chain after all

[Mattso]

@PaulinBont

The M&P guys are great! We always do the NEC / Motorcycle Live show with them and its always a good laugh. After a few days working that show you really appreciate good company! Maybe just give the guys a call and see if they plan any offers. Anternatively you could follow us on Facebook... thats where we announche all our promotions.

@threepot

The Scottoiler factory is in Milngavie, just a few miles north of Glasgow. So at the end of the working day you have the choice of either going back into Glasgow to sit in front of the telly or you turn left and go up towards Loch Lomond or Aberfolyle. Its really not a difficult decision.

The round trip actually only went Glasgow, France, Germany. Thats where I originally come from and I left my bike with my folks back home. My dad got right back into motorcycling and is currently riding my bike. I am currently looking at a CB750 or a Fazer 600.


As for your Scottoiler / Oil used in your Scottoiler:

You read here and on other forums everywhere about people that use different oils, chainsaw oil, etc. - Thats fair enough. We cant obviously tell you what you want to do with your Scottoiler and lots of people have good experiences, some oils might be better for their ambient temperature, style of riding etc.
But please keep in mind: We can only guarantee that our oils have been tested with the materials in the systems and are free of any contaminations. So your kit warranty is only valid when using Scottoil.

Your Scottoiler kit comes with 250ml of Scottoil. On our recommended flow rate of 1 drop per minute thats about 5000 miles of riding. Our standard bottle is 500ml costs 7.50 retail... if you go to a show or wait for a special offer you sometimes get 2 bottles for a tenner.

No matter what you use please do not use old engine oil. It might have small metal particles from your engine that can harm and destroy your O-Rings. Using old engine oil is definitely false economy.

Hope this helps!
Matt

[Frog]

LOL

[davsato]

That would work fine Dave, it only syphons from the big reservoir into the scottoiler anyway. Ive only got the HCR numberplate reservoir because:
A someone gave it to me
B they said you couldn't fit it to a varadero, and I like a challenge

Sory but no one told me you couldn't fit it on a Varadero.....

Mines an '06 kenbo, yours is '07> with a different back end. You've got a completely different mudguard/numberplate plastic to mine. Mine's either not strong enough or (more likely because I've had no problems in 8yrs) the thickness of the HCR moves the numberplate out from under the light. It wasn't recommended for varaderos at the time, but as I said mines been totally trouble free.

Why did you turn your axle over?

[Kenbo]

The metal ring thingy for attaching the pipe to. The large pre drilled hole only fits over the threaded part of the axil and not the smooth part which is only slightly wider. Given my past experiances with power tools it was safer for me to switch the axil round (battery plainer, wooden door and kneecaps is all I will say about that)
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[threepot]

No matter what you use please do not use old engine oil. It might have small metal particles from your engine that can harm and destroy your O-Rings. Using old engine oil is definitely false economy.
Fair comment,but I'm hoping my filter has captured most of those??!! :huh:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scottoiler-V- ... 51cc81fccc

[Zookman]

Then answer this please, why, when no settings are changed does mine completely stop working for no reason, adjust the ring slightly and it then pisses out everywhere, and then takes another couple of hundred miles of going forward and backwards to get the flow right, where it stays for a while to again repeat the process for no apparent reason. The concept is great, but it's a fickle beast to get adjusted right, too temperature sensitive, and far too much backlash in the adjustment system.

PD oiler will probably go on at some time in the future.

As for cost? Well the new systems from Scottoiler have priced themselves out of the market.

It seems we're in the minority here, but I've had the same issues and just given up on auto chain oilers.
Also, it really isn't a big deal to me to spray on some chain lube every few hundred miles, or even brush on some gear oil occasionally.... and I still get over 20K miles out of a chain & sprockets.

[Mattso]

Fair comment,but I'm hoping my filter has captured most of those??!! :huh:

Next time you change your oil check out your oil draining screw / plug. Usually they have a magnet on the inside to catch metal flakes and shavings. Its quite interesting to see ... they are tiny but thats what makes it so bad when used as "chain oil".
Basically if you want to use engine oil to lubricate your chain then use at least new oil and not old oil.

@Zookman

I am sorry you had problems with your Scottoiler too. Like I said we always try to help and will do anything to make you a happy customer.
But like you said, with regular and painstaking chain maintenance you can achieve similar results. You should always clean off the old lubricant (and dirt) from your chain before you apply new chain lube.
The tacky chain lube binds dirt and grit from the road and through the movement of the chain and articulation with the sprocket this black paste on your chain turns into a sandpaper like grinding paste. This paste will wear away your O-Rings and once the lubricant can seep out thats when you suddenly see accelerated wear.

Thanks
Matt