CRF250 L thread
Re: CRF250 L thread
Hi again , any advice on clutch please , mines done 3000mls but over past couple of rides it's felt a bit high , anyway today it gave up the ghost , to be honest the trail I was on was a climb of basically snow and mud and seriously heavy going even for the 450 with me , so although it's still under warranty I'm thinking can I put a heavier clutch in , would hate it to happen in morocco, cheers J
Re: CRF250 L thread
Have a look on thumpertalk Spadger, theres a CRF250 L/M section. I remember seeing a heavy duty clutch plate upgrade 'how to' with photos.
I'm pretty sure Minkyhead has done it so he may be able to point you in the direction of part numbers (thumbs)
I'm pretty sure Minkyhead has done it so he may be able to point you in the direction of part numbers (thumbs)
With enough profanity, you can accomplish anything
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Re: CRF250 L thread
have you tried adjusting the clutch cable? .. there should be 10 - 20mm free play at the clutch lever (hand book).
there is a minor adjuster (wheel near lever) and a major adjuster (longer one a bit further along).
3000 miles does not seem a lot, to need a new clutch?
as the plates wear the lever free play will lessen, and the lever biting point will feel higher gradually? then fade (I think)
[apologies if already done.]
there is a minor adjuster (wheel near lever) and a major adjuster (longer one a bit further along).
3000 miles does not seem a lot, to need a new clutch?
as the plates wear the lever free play will lessen, and the lever biting point will feel higher gradually? then fade (I think)
[apologies if already done.]
CRF250 L thread
Hi Gary boy thanks for reply and appreciated, yea the adjustment is as above , it was still changing ok just slipping I think this stuff had a lot to do with itgaryboy wrote:have you tried adjusting the clutch cable? .. there should be 10 - 20mm free play at the clutch lever (hand book).
there is a minor adjuster (wheel near lever) and a major adjuster (longer one a bit further along).
3000 miles does not seem a lot, to need a new clutch?
as the plates wear the lever free play will lessen, and the lever biting point will feel higher gradually? then fade (I think)
[apologies if already done.]
photo courtesy of Greg villabolas Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- garyboy
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Re: CRF250 L thread
hiya Spadger
mmm .. dunno then.
perhaps minky will know?
is it the correct engine oil?
could the clutch plates have worn so quickly?
mmm .. dunno then.
perhaps minky will know?
is it the correct engine oil?
could the clutch plates have worn so quickly?
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Re: CRF250 L thread
i have found fade on the 250 clutch quite early on ..bogged down in a stream ..it got out but the lever had faded to the bar to be fair it recovered ok and i had the wrong gearing on but
i decided to change and do the upgrade off thumpertalk
..3000 sounds pretty low neils o/e is still fine after 10k or more ..
im presuming you guys are 1 to 2ml not 10to 20ml on the adjusment :whistle:
these are the bits
its fitted with a judder assembly which is not good for prolonged feet down clutch slipping stuff it significantly weakens the plate grip creating heat
he judder ring will come out with the last plate its a big diapham spring the same size as the plate ..the last plate is smaller to allow the ring to seat ...its purpose is to stop the clutch engaging quickly ..it hondas idea to do away with a cush drive but it causes a weak hook up and heat when off road
you will notice the last two plates are blued as the ring allows them to slip more and they heat up [below]
DSC_5380 by minkyhead56, on Flickr[/img]
DSC_5379 by minkyhead56, on Flickr[/img]
the judder ASSEMBY HAS A DIAPHAM SPRING WHICH MUST BE REMOVED ...ALSO A SEATING RING CORROAPONDING IN THE FLYWHEEL THAT MUST BE REMOVED[above]
parts 11 and 4 come out and stay out when using the 1313 kit
http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts ... 111/clutch
DSC_5380 by minkyhead56, on Flickr
1313 fits straight in . soak them for 24 hours before install ...change the oil after around 300 miles but give the clutch a bit of stick so it beds in ..all the clutch debris will be in the oil after bedding in so give a freash change
all five plates the hook up without being held apart by the judder rings ..the stronger springs then close the pates ..it isnt bad but the lever will be noticbly stiffer afterwards ..you will notice a stronger hook up uon the clutch .its noticable when you need to shove the bike up a bumpy step and stuff like that ..it will be much less prone to fade if you get bogged down
the good news is it take about a hour to change the clutch ..be carful and the gasket is reusable the new one is still in the wrapper ..you could lean it againsty atree and change it in the feild keeping the oil with a 8 and 10ml socket and a pair of pliers and maby somw well seal (thumbs)
its unlikley honda will do a warranty on a clutch ...but if they aggreed the deffo wouldnt install the 1313 kit for you ..
the 1313 is a stronger hook up ..more aggreesive plates and significantly stronger spings (thumbs)
if you need a copy of the workshop manual or anyone would like a copy pm me .. (thumbs)
i decided to change and do the upgrade off thumpertalk
..3000 sounds pretty low neils o/e is still fine after 10k or more ..
im presuming you guys are 1 to 2ml not 10to 20ml on the adjusment :whistle:
these are the bits
its fitted with a judder assembly which is not good for prolonged feet down clutch slipping stuff it significantly weakens the plate grip creating heat
he judder ring will come out with the last plate its a big diapham spring the same size as the plate ..the last plate is smaller to allow the ring to seat ...its purpose is to stop the clutch engaging quickly ..it hondas idea to do away with a cush drive but it causes a weak hook up and heat when off road
you will notice the last two plates are blued as the ring allows them to slip more and they heat up [below]
DSC_5380 by minkyhead56, on Flickr[/img]
DSC_5379 by minkyhead56, on Flickr[/img]the judder ASSEMBY HAS A DIAPHAM SPRING WHICH MUST BE REMOVED ...ALSO A SEATING RING CORROAPONDING IN THE FLYWHEEL THAT MUST BE REMOVED[above]
parts 11 and 4 come out and stay out when using the 1313 kit
http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts ... 111/clutch
DSC_5380 by minkyhead56, on Flickr
1313 fits straight in . soak them for 24 hours before install ...change the oil after around 300 miles but give the clutch a bit of stick so it beds in ..all the clutch debris will be in the oil after bedding in so give a freash change
all five plates the hook up without being held apart by the judder rings ..the stronger springs then close the pates ..it isnt bad but the lever will be noticbly stiffer afterwards ..you will notice a stronger hook up uon the clutch .its noticable when you need to shove the bike up a bumpy step and stuff like that ..it will be much less prone to fade if you get bogged down
the good news is it take about a hour to change the clutch ..be carful and the gasket is reusable the new one is still in the wrapper ..you could lean it againsty atree and change it in the feild keeping the oil with a 8 and 10ml socket and a pair of pliers and maby somw well seal (thumbs)
its unlikley honda will do a warranty on a clutch ...but if they aggreed the deffo wouldnt install the 1313 kit for you ..
the 1313 is a stronger hook up ..more aggreesive plates and significantly stronger spings (thumbs)
if you need a copy of the workshop manual or anyone would like a copy pm me .. (thumbs)
whats the wether forcast ..wheres me map
Re: CRF250 L thread
Guys thanks very much for all the input , Minkyhead , the detailed description is much appreciated, thanks very much I'll get the stuff ordered and do the upgraded clutch , will probably do the wife's as well , her judder springs always a bit dodgy 
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Re: CRF250 L thread
so is this wear due to `riding` (feathering) the clutch in difficult situations?
will lower gearing sort this? (larger rear sprocket)
and incidentally, does the rear wheel not have a cush drive?
(must get a workshop manual)
will lower gearing sort this? (larger rear sprocket)
and incidentally, does the rear wheel not have a cush drive?
(must get a workshop manual)
Re: CRF250 L thread
garyboy wrote:so is this wear due to `riding` (feathering) the clutch in difficult situations?
will lower gearing sort this? (larger rear sprocket)
I would think so the bikes a bit soft really for some stuff , it's not an Enduro bike , but it gets there , the going up here is generally mud and wet heavy trails this time of year , pulled it all apart today and it was all a bit blue ive ordered an EBC going on the upgrade as above via minkyhead , they actually do a full kit inc both friction and steel plates and springs for 70 quid , arriving Friday I'll get it fitted and update , for info my bike has 13/42 sprocket I'm really impressed with it to be honest the past couple of weeks I've been up
Some fairly knarly climbs and trails and its faired well ( apart from clutch ) , no doubt I'll be pestering again re suspension upgrade s but just for mine
