Adventure Bike Rider Forum

So i need a bit of help. I thought wouldnt it be useful to be able to fix a puncture if i was out. So watched a few of the tutorials on line and it seemed quite simple

First problem i hit was breaking the bead. Boy that was hard it just wouldnt go. But did it eventually.

Got the tyre off. Inspected the wheel and theres quite a bit of damage done i.e. burrs now i probably wouldnt take a set of files downbthe trail with me and these are quite pronanced from breaking the bead.

Im going to buy a set of long files now to take the burrs off but worried putting the tyre back on will just result in more hidden burrs.

What am i doing wrong!

Try this link for a excellent example of how to change a tyre. All credit to Captin KTM!

Hi, a novice at this, I bought some Motion Pro bead breakers. Expensive at £50 they do work, a bit on the long side, I strap them to the outside of my tool tube. On my last outing, we had 2 punctures and it seems that the bead is easier to break on a warm tyre, so I shall take a spin around the block before I replace the next tyre.

I have since read the longer a tyres on the harder to v=break the bead and that tyre is 2 yrs old now!

But it seems i nipped the tube getting it off soo it wont be going back on tonight

:pinch:

Don't know if it's been said but always put air in the tube before you put it in the tyre .you will never pinch it then !
it needs to be formed and round ....easy then

Cone wrote:So i need a bit of help. I thought wouldnt it be useful to be able to fix a puncture if i was out. So watched a few of the tutorials on line and it seemed quite simple

First problem i hit was breaking the bead. Boy that was hard it just wouldnt go. But did it eventually.

Got the tyre off. Inspected the wheel and theres quite a bit of damage done i.e. burrs now i probably wouldnt take a set of files downbthe trail with me and these are quite pronanced from breaking the bead.

Im going to buy a set of long files now to take the burrs off but worried putting the tyre back on will just result in more hidden burrs.

What am i doing wrong!

As Roberteagle states....

I find with my XTZ660 Ténéré rear tyre(they're notoriously difficult to get the bead to break due to the wide rim) that if I ride for a bit it heats the tyre up enough to allow the side stand to be used to with the weight of the moto to break the bead.

The only thing with this is to be careful one doesn't ride too much to damage the valve stem....having said that the tyre is locked on so tight that to date I haven't zapped a valve..yet.

This is all well and good I hear you say if you've a centre stand to allow.

For the burrs....a rough stone to file them out if they're that bad?

As rally moto states a bit of air in the tube will allow the lever to slide in and 'bounce' off the tube letting you know where the tube is relative to the end of the lever...having said that if you have a burr on the lever end it'll only ever be on the very edge of the rim, although if it slips it will scrape your rim....easy enough to paint and repair later though if selling the moto.

I always have air in a rear tube but I don't need any in the front tube as shown.





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All good stuff, and you can never have too much info on this subject. We re all going to get a puncture at some point and if you have n't then you've probably made a deal with the devil. Getting a tyre off the rim can be dam near impossible on some bikes, all the 950/990 KTM's have a monster lip around the rim which I guess is for safety? Anyway you will be hard push to get the tyre off the rim with just levers. A good idea and one I have used is to use the bikes centre stand, it aint easy and should be practised. But by placing one foot on the tyres edge and then rocking the bike onto it, progressively working around the tyre it will come off. Another method I have used was a shovel!! But of course you have to have the puncture out side a farm or garden centre. I actually ask KTM how they thought these tyres would be removed and they said "OH just use bigger levers" Thanks. I have now modified my rims so that I never have the problem again by grinding off the lip with a flapdisc. I have done this for a quarter of the rim each side, and marked it so I know where to start. Now they come off easy! Another tip, if you can't afford levers with a proper lip to prevent them sliding into the tyre then the Turk's used to get a flat lever, with a nice curved end and cut a groove about 4 mm from the end at right angles. Now when you slide the lever in for that last few tube nipping times use this lever with the groove against the rim, you'll feel it touch as you push the lever in. then ease the tyre on.

Mended the tube now and boy tyres go on easily compared to how they come off....

No here's a thought, I did it in my garage, with a compressor... It took a lot of puff to pop the tyre onto the rim... What do you take on the trail to do this???

to save hijacking this thread ill start a new one on how to repair the paint on the wheels...

good tips and toolkit here. dave. oops duplicate link

Cone wrote:Mended the tube now and boy tyres go on easily compared to how they come off....

No here's a thought, I did it in my garage, with a compressor... It took a lot of puff to pop the tyre onto the rim... What do you take on the trail to do this???

to save hijacking this thread ill start a new one on how to repair the paint on the wheels...

I use one of these for my XTZ..... www.motopumps.com and just a stumpy mountain bike pump for my enduro bike.

I have the older version.....they're really tiny for traveling with.





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