Adventure Bike Rider Forum

Do you have the broken off piece?

Could you get a jubilee clip around it, if so then chemical metal and the clip might be strong enough. Won't be pretty!

As an afterthought if a jubilee clip will go around then put one on the other cylinder to give the fitting some reinforcement.

tom

bikenav wrote: ↑Wed Jan 26, 2022 8:32 pm welding is still my first choice even without any real practical knowledge of the heat spread risk to the top end components/head etc.

Welding doesn't have to be a continuous operation, it can be done in small enough goes to limit heat transfer, so I would just go for it.

Also, bear in mind the heat that is generated inside your engine during use will probably be greater than that transferred from the outside when welding.

i might be tepted to make a double dog leg bracket from the header bolt and either tap the top bit over the lug/ weld a thin nut on .... or cut the lug off and a simple bolt into the top dog leg ....id think it will hold it in place ok in a spill but should bend or rotate alittle on the header bolt so no real strain on that big boy .... with maby 1.5mm flat ...?

What about chemical metal a bolt into existing thread, rebuild the shoulder, then cut the head off the bolt, just use a nut to attach things. Personally I'd go for tig weld and re tapping, don't think heat from weld would affect to much. Just saying. Good luck anyways.

some replies- No I did not have the broken off bit, my thinking was that chemical metal was not going to hack it however tempting it was to try, making some kind of boss to attach might have been a way and then weld that, turning was once my job I may have been tempted then but Brexit put paid to that so machine access would just add more aggro now. A double L bracket yeh that definitely has miles in it and all possible in my garage but that header bolt has not been touched since Herr Fritz spun it in with his airgun 17 years ago so there may be a few worms opening that can.

Anyway I bit the bullet toke it up to my local Fab guy pulled the tank off disconnected the ECU thingy I have an isolator on the battery so thats easy removed the rocker cover and rubber gasket both to save the gasket and have access in the event of an oil fire, laid the bike down on his forklift forks the guy insisted on a blanket for the protection of his forks? and off he went (should have had a pic really) I was a bit nervous at the durations of his welds and there was a little smoke but all appeared OK after 2 rods worth of 40 amps I think he said and £30. Putting the multi pin main plug back in to the ECU was the scariest part of the job in all honesty could not get it to seat and real scary trying to push in all them little pins, but all good she fired up happy after her little lay down without even a little knock seems to prefer the right side for a rest. All back together did the 6 miles home and replaced the also repaired guard after a bit of drilling and tapping, time will tell. was hoping to turn some gravel over today with it, but a shake of the rear wheel said NO, lower paralever pivot loose, on inspection the dust cover of the ball bearing its a 2RS had pushed out? and the pivot bolt appeared loose tried to tighten it then the cage was pushing out of the bearing and it felt really mushy on the spanner, WTF! you may have read this came loose whilst I was in Spain and I had to borrow some tools along with an enthusiastic helper who pulled on it and I mean pulled ! I had no more grief for the rest of the trip so good there, but I had been riding about for a day or so with it coming loose and me finger tightening it so maybe it got unhappy somewhere there. Oh and it may have been an unbranded cheapest of the cheap ebay job, I did put one in one of my FD's dont remember which you know just to try, SKF/INA £35 cheapo less than 10 as I remember, shit design no seal as such changed a few times , not a big to deal a strip and lube wont go amiss anyway. the trials and tribulations uh.

Anyway thanks all for thoughts and suggestions it all helps.