That's handy because our house was originally built on a 0.4 acre plot but they later sold about 40% of it and had a bungalow built on it. It still leaves plenty of scope for a monster shed but the back garden is stepped down in 3 levels so I'll make do with the one I've already got waiting which is a mere 12' x 10'.Scott_rider wrote:I kid you not...you can build a monster 'shed' in your garden without planning permission as long as it doesn't take up more than half...yes, half...of the original land around the house when the house was first built.
So if you've got a standard 1000sq.ft 3 bedroom semi that's sitting on a 150ft x 40ft garden (6,000 sq.ft) you could build a 2,500 sq. ft shed! :silly: (6,000 minus 1000, divided by 2).
There are a few other conditions but I've seen some monsters built under this rule... :woohoo:
Power / Electric in the Shed ??
Re: Power / Electric in the Shed ??
Re: Power / Electric in the Shed ??
Fun and games these days with wiring. A long time ago I rewired my old house and fitted the gas pipes myself, then had them checked by friends in the trade. You still don't need to be a qualified electrician so long as you are working "under the direction" of one and you get it checked and certified.
In essence this means finding a local sparky who will agree to design the supply (you will need a duct and possibly a new earth) distance will also reduce the voltage so you may need to install a new board after the meter etc. then do the work and get him to check it. This will keep costs down and keep you straight.
On the other hand if you have no intention of moving for a long time, just go to your local electrical factor and get their advice on cable / fittings etc. and do it yourself, then use a plug in circuit tester to ensure no leaky earths etc.
In essence this means finding a local sparky who will agree to design the supply (you will need a duct and possibly a new earth) distance will also reduce the voltage so you may need to install a new board after the meter etc. then do the work and get him to check it. This will keep costs down and keep you straight.
On the other hand if you have no intention of moving for a long time, just go to your local electrical factor and get their advice on cable / fittings etc. and do it yourself, then use a plug in circuit tester to ensure no leaky earths etc.
Re: Power / Electric in the Shed ??
AndyB wrote:As said there are provisos such as height and proximity to highways, boundaries, etc. so do check these out first. Mainly depends on the neighbours to be honest as they are the ones that call an enforcement officer generallyScott_rider wrote:I kid you not...you can build a monster 'shed' in your garden without planning permission as long as it doesn't take up more than half...yes, half...of the original land around the house when the house was first built.
So if you've got a standard 1000sq.ft 3 bedroom semi that's sitting on a 150ft x 40ft garden (6,000 sq.ft) you could build a 2,500 sq. ft shed! :silly: (6,000 minus 1000, divided by 2).
There are a few other conditions but I've seen some monsters built under this rule... :woohoo:
That's handy because our house was originally built on a 0.4 acre plot but they later sold about 40% of it and had a bungalow built on it. It still leaves plenty of scope for a monster shed but the back garden is stepped down in 3 levels so I'll make do with the one I've already got waiting which is a mere 12' x 10'.
The secret of a long life is knowing when its time to go.
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rwa.martin
- Posts: 114
- Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2014 4:20 am
Re: Power / Electric in the Shed ??
Electrician here.
A lot of variables so needs to be seen to say for definite. However, a guide would be:
Split the tails at the "head". Protect the cable run with a suitable isolator. Run either 6 or 10mm armoured cable to the new shed/garage/workshop. Run this underground buried to 600mm depth with suitable warning tape 200mm above it. Don't skimp on cable - the extra cost of 10mm over 2.5 is small when compared to having to re-excavate the trench to fit a larger cable to power the new welder you didn't realise you wanted.
Use 3 core armoured if the house is TT or TN-S earthing. 2 core if it's TN-C-S and put in an earth rod (better still a tape when the foundations go down). Ensure the sheathing is correctly glanded and bonded but isolated from the shed if the house is TN-C-S.
Consumer unit in the garage. 1.5mm cable for lights protected by a 6A RCBO. 2.5mm cable for sockets protected by a 20A RCBO. Run as a radial is ok. Run it in conduit or trunking to give it suitable protection for the environment.
RCBOs mean no need for a single RCD and ensures lights are on if you trip the sockets.
Alternatively, you could run the distribution circuit from a spare way on the house CU. Ensure that the MCB protecting the circuit is NOT RCD protected or, if one is needed for a TT system use a 100mA S curve to ensure a fault trips the RCBOs and not the main house.
The skill in electrics is not making it work. Pretty much anyone can do that. The real skill is ensuring that if it fails, it fails gracefully; not giving anyone an shock and just as importantly, ensuring that it doesn't go up in smoke.
Rich.
A lot of variables so needs to be seen to say for definite. However, a guide would be:
Split the tails at the "head". Protect the cable run with a suitable isolator. Run either 6 or 10mm armoured cable to the new shed/garage/workshop. Run this underground buried to 600mm depth with suitable warning tape 200mm above it. Don't skimp on cable - the extra cost of 10mm over 2.5 is small when compared to having to re-excavate the trench to fit a larger cable to power the new welder you didn't realise you wanted.
Use 3 core armoured if the house is TT or TN-S earthing. 2 core if it's TN-C-S and put in an earth rod (better still a tape when the foundations go down). Ensure the sheathing is correctly glanded and bonded but isolated from the shed if the house is TN-C-S.
Consumer unit in the garage. 1.5mm cable for lights protected by a 6A RCBO. 2.5mm cable for sockets protected by a 20A RCBO. Run as a radial is ok. Run it in conduit or trunking to give it suitable protection for the environment.
RCBOs mean no need for a single RCD and ensures lights are on if you trip the sockets.
Alternatively, you could run the distribution circuit from a spare way on the house CU. Ensure that the MCB protecting the circuit is NOT RCD protected or, if one is needed for a TT system use a 100mA S curve to ensure a fault trips the RCBOs and not the main house.
The skill in electrics is not making it work. Pretty much anyone can do that. The real skill is ensuring that if it fails, it fails gracefully; not giving anyone an shock and just as importantly, ensuring that it doesn't go up in smoke.
Rich.
