Crf 250 Rally Tyre Advice

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Scott_rider
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Re: Crf 250 Rally Tyre Advice

Post by Scott_rider »

...^...The Mitas CO2 is considerably larger than its size says it is...(if that makes sense). I remember it being a very snug fit between the swingarm of my '05 KTM 400exc and it also raised the rear height of the bike. It fitted better in my old DRZ400E.
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garyboy
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Re: Crf 250 Rally Tyre Advice

Post by garyboy »

I suppose that explains why so many ask about tyres .. its not just the suitability, grip, hardness of sidewall, and fitting, tread pattern, wear, ride smoothness, weight, etc etc ... its also about the fit, in that bike.
rockdodger
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Re: Crf 250 Rally Tyre Advice

Post by rockdodger »

Thank you to everyone who offered up advice it’s much appreciated. The things I’m wanting to avoid after reading the replies are a tyre that’s to big and rubs the swing arm or makes the bike higher. I also don’t want a tyre that’s heavy because like people have said it’s not a big engine so I think adding weight in the tyres isn’t a good idea.
I would also prefer a tyre that in the event of a puncture could be easily removed on the trail. I know from experience I once tried to remove a Tkc 80 and found it quite difficult.
I actually spoke to a guy recently who had Michelin Trackers on his Crf 250 L and he really liked them and said when he travel on tarmac to his off road sections they were good. Has anyone else used these tyres or any others for that matter and can give me real life experiences of how they fit and perform both on the trail and on the roads getting too those trails.
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Richard Simpson Mark II
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Re: Crf 250 Rally Tyre Advice

Post by Richard Simpson Mark II »

Given the price, the Michelins have got to be worth a shot

Enduro tyres near Salisbury generally have them in stock

https://endurotyres.com/product/michelin-tracker-rear/
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Re: Crf 250 Rally Tyre Advice

Post by minkyhead »

not ried the trackers but have used several endiro tyrs vee rubber maxxis it unicross and kenda tracmasters they all did ok to a point the problem with all enduro tyres is they go like the top of freinkensteins head pretty quick and are not too pleasent when they square ..but they are cheap and easy to replace where the adv type tyres keep a reasoble road quality for much longer

the 120s in these tyres were marginal and the maxxis likes to chew at the chain guard ..weird that say a e09 130 has a smaller width than a maxxis 110 ... the 120 motox is wider than a e09 130 too .in the enduros ive found 110s to be more than enough tbo id ude a 110 motoz but they dont make one near all enduro stuff certainly be wider than the 120 o/e fitment as guide the 120s tend to clear the rear awungarm by just around 5mm . worse tyre i ever bought was the mc360 metzler it was a beast of a tyre on the moss but lethal awful on the road/ instant lock up with even a gentle brake ..it only stayed on one afternoon .. id just but the trackers and stick em on take it from there ....you can see the daftness in the sizings theres a 130e09 in the middle a unicross and a mc 360 in 120s ... as you can see they do take up some space and the mc even had a go at the catflap it was that big ... ive put a picture of vee rubber 110 in at th bottom pleanty of tyre for the crf ... the other thing that may be worth considering they do raise the seat height quite noticably ....... if u go with a 120 ..i wouldnt ..try and get 120/90 rather than 120/100 bit more clearance on swingarm at the back

you just got to keep trying stuff until you find the right combo for you

Image

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110 was a better choice for me quite a big difference

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johnnyboxer
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Crf 250 Rally Tyre Advice

Post by johnnyboxer »

Just taken the XR400R for Mot this morning and stuck a spare front wheel on, with a half worn MT21 on
Bike felt 100% better on the road with the MT21 on, than the Maxxis IT Pro that was on the front wheel I took off, for Mot purposes
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Re: Crf 250 Rally Tyre Advice

Post by rockdodger »

Again thanks for all this information. I think i will be trying the Trackers first and take it from there. I am also going to try fit them myself so any tips on making that job easier would be appreciated. Ive a good set of tyre levers and that's it.
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Re: Crf 250 Rally Tyre Advice

Post by Richard Simpson Mark II »

Make sure the wheels and the new tyres are warm before you start. I put an old hairdryer inside the new tyres to warm them up.

If you don't have them already, consider fitting security bolts...fit them with the rim tape over the bolt.

I put talc on the innertubes before fitting.

I use car shampoo as a lube on the tyre beads.

Get a valve puller...makes the job easier.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/363243862748

Get the tyre beads in the well of the rim.

Removing the tyre: start at the valve

Take each side of the tyre off its own side of the rim, then turn the wheel so its 45 degrees to the tyre and pull it out

Refitting the tyre: finish at the valve.

Don't leave any tyre levers in the tyre (it's happened before, it will happen again!)
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Re: Crf 250 Rally Tyre Advice

Post by garyboy »

johnnyboxer wrote: Thu May 19, 2022 1:01 pm Just taken the XR400R for Mot this morning and stuck a spare front wheel on, with a half worn MT21 on
Bike felt 100% better on the road with the MT21 on, than the Maxxis IT Pro that was on the front wheel I took off, for Mot purposes
is not the `Maxxis IT Pro` .. E marked and street legal?
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Re: Crf 250 Rally Tyre Advice

Post by garyboy »

in addition to RSmk11 tyre changing advice ..
use Buzzetti tyre levers, as advised by Mr RS2.

I am an expert in changing tyres ... but using a sharp edged tyre lever .. resulting in 100% failure .. proof of which is in my `fail` cupboard .... many many rubbers with snake bite marks in lol ... o dear .. :lol:

advice i would give to a (year) younger, more innocent me? ..

Remove the wheel, place the spacers somewhere near mud or grass, to make the task much more exciting, and more practical at home.
Try to identify the dust seals near the bearings, as they can pout and disappear if handled roughly, and you won't know.
Buy the best levers.
Use someone else's levers, as on the trail you always forget your own, and this will give you practice.
Use the big lever first .. very carefully, as this is probably the most notorious position, as the innocent rubber is yet unaware of the dangers to come.
A valve remover is great .. but practice not being able to find it in your tool bag .. as they are mysterious leprechauns.
Deflate the tyre ... but not completely .. as your mates will laugh at your flaccid tube.
Although only half hard, the flaccid rubber is less easy to puncture with the lever against the rim.

If, like me, you succeed in pinch puncturing the tube, hide it immediately in the cupboard, never to speak of again.
Order that cheap thin little bassard tube/s you should have ordered in the first place.
Practice looking helpless and forlorn, for when you have need of your mate's tube.
Never travel alone, as you will need your mate's tools and spare tube.
Practice fumbling and being ham fisted, so's your mate will offer to change the tube for you, while you have a fag.
Take up smoking, if even just for this satisfaction, but resist any temptations while your bestie is bent over.
If any temptations appear .. book immediately for illegal aversion therapy.
Admit that sometimes it is better to give into some temptations, for your own mental wellbeing, and to be `in with the boys`.
Always start and finish a quarter round the rim from the valve, as this will wind up RS2.
Avoid, like the plague, any semblance of a rim lock .. they are the frustration of the devil.

When scouring around the nice new rim paint, forget all thoughts of `nice bike` ... it was already too late when you had that puncture or bought a new tube.
The harder you gouge, the less is the damage.
Pussyfooting makes it a lot worse.

Keep the distances between levers as small as practical. Little pinches of tyre rubber at a time.
Try to use the depth of the wheel `well`, the best you can, but not always as easy as it sounds, but persevere.
To assist flexibility of the tyre, prior to removal, warm up by riding for miles on the flat tyre.
Perhaps a few yards may be more practical, on a cold day? but not really advisable lol, unless desperate.
Do not place in oven, unless using a large integrated oven, to hide from misses.
Do a self mental questionnaire ... starting with .. `why the fkk did i buy such a strong hard tyre?`

Take tyre off both rims .. either side .. as less swear words are emitted while strangling the poor tube out of its encumbrance.
Alternatively, make sure the one bead end is well into the well.
Either way, move the tyre around as you go to get the most open space where you are extracting.

Try to put the correct tube size in.
Best to carry 2 tubes, I think, front and rear .. saves you doing the job twice with say a bigger front tube to the rear.
Make sure there is a bit of wind in the sails .. part inflated tube .. helps keep the tube off the metal rim.
Go steady, dont shove it in too far .. the lever. .. do the minimum to achieve results.
Pump up.

Re-fitting is a simple and easy reversal of the above procedure (lol)

Top Tip ... place the fiendish wheel spacers in from the Rear.
Also .. realign the wheel by spinning in place, then suddenly applying the brake, while the axle is loose .. realigns!!
Do not overtighten the axle, as it will be easier to remove when another puncture in the next lane, and helps keep the bearings round.
Always carry a long screwdriver .. so useful for axle removal, messing with wheel spacers, squeezing brake pads apart to slide the brake disc in, and for removing large screws.
Practise practise practise, at home, so you can tell your mates how easy it was for your first time ever, on the trail.
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