are they the same oil,s
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are they the same oil,s
i got a new R E Interceptor in may ,they recommend fully synthetic10W 50 to API SL or higher such as ELF MOTO4 TECH10W 50 which is red in colour so it,s handy because you use the sight glass on side of the casing to check oil level, this ELF is what they used now thinking i might want to top up the oil at some point i sent for some. ELF MOTO4 TECH 10W 50 but this is a clear slightly green oil can it be mixed it say,s on the bottle API 5N ,so the difference red API SL clear API 5N any help please P.S you might notice i have not posted for a long time because i could not log in computers hate me
Re: are they the same oil,s
Greetings,
Might it be worth getting in touch with Elf for their guidance
https://services.totalenergies.uk/busin ... rcycle-oil
TTFN
Hugh.
Might it be worth getting in touch with Elf for their guidance
https://services.totalenergies.uk/busin ... rcycle-oil
TTFN
Hugh.
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Re: are they the same oil,s
API Sx is for gasoline enginesblue bus wrote: ↑Wed Oct 13, 2021 9:14 pm i got a new R E Interceptor in may ,they recommend fully synthetic10W 50 to API SL or higher such as ELF MOTO4 TECH10W 50 which is red in colour so it,s handy because you use the sight glass on side of the casing to check oil level, this ELF is what they used now thinking i might want to top up the oil at some point i sent for some. ELF MOTO4 TECH 10W 50 but this is a clear slightly green oil can it be mixed it say,s on the bottle API 5N ,so the difference red API SL clear API 5N any help please P.S you might notice i have not posted for a long time because i could not log in computers hate me
"higher" letter of x => higher requirements
So if the requirement is API SL, you can use API SL, SM or SN
https://www.rymax-lubricants.com/update ... -it-works/
API C : Diesel
API 5N: I have never heard about
=> I am pretty sure that you have type/read error It is API SN, not API 5N
So you can use the ELF oil without problem. It fulfills higher requirement than the bike requires.
Mixing brands of oil is no problem.
That is the formal side.
===
Than my personal view
The oils that fulfill very high requirements are optimized for racing use. Very hard use of the bike for rater long time (hours) (race) But few stop and go. (And than you change before next race) The more old style oil often adhere better when standing for some time. And the engine wear at startup is much lower. E.G. On camshafts and otherparts. Where it takes some time before the oil is there. After a long stop.
I never use fully synthetic oil in a normal street bikes. Semi-Synthetic is OK - It is just mineral oil with a minor addition of synthetic oil. And as low SAE range as possible. E.g nt 10W-50 but 20W-40 or 20W-50.
Higher range => more stuff is added. => oil degraded quicker.
And 10Wxx Are you really going to run the bike in winter time ???
We ride at summer. And at least air cooled engines get hot. => I use xxW-50 for my bikes. Not-40 For really old bikes, I use SEA 50 single grade !! Mineral oil !!
But there are as many opinions about oils as there are persons.
Not to mention 2T oil.
Where some persons thinks that they need high performance racing oil in their old 2 strike bike.
And I say that any 2T oil they sell toady is better than what was available when my old GT 750 -1973 was new.
So I buy any 2 stroke oil. And pure mineral oil smokes and smells more. That make the 2 stroke riding more fun.
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Re: are they the same oil,s
Is the API SL relevant. I have a car which is fine with SL but must not be used with SM or above. Something to do with zinc.
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Re: are they the same oil,s
Zinc is an excellent anti-wear additive...but perhaps there's an issue with it contaminating catalytic convertors?
Most modern diesel engines with particulate filters and/or SCR must use a Low or Medium SAPS oil. SAPS is Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur. They are all great at reducing friction or wear in an oil, but small quantities of them are left on the cylinder wall and end up burning in the combustion process. They form an ash on the DPF and/or SCR catalyst that won't burn, and can't be removed during a normal 'regen'. The only cure is to clean or replace the filter matrix.
Most modern diesel engines with particulate filters and/or SCR must use a Low or Medium SAPS oil. SAPS is Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur. They are all great at reducing friction or wear in an oil, but small quantities of them are left on the cylinder wall and end up burning in the combustion process. They form an ash on the DPF and/or SCR catalyst that won't burn, and can't be removed during a normal 'regen'. The only cure is to clean or replace the filter matrix.
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Re: are they the same oil,s
My car won’t have any worries about catalytic converters or any sort of filters, it’s managed 90 years without even an air filter.
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Re: are they the same oil,s
It was a long time since I read so much nonsense.Hugh wrote: ↑Wed Oct 13, 2021 9:39 pm Greetings,
Might it be worth getting in touch with Elf for their guidance
https://services.totalenergies.uk/busin ... rcycle-oil
TTFN
Hugh.
I think that motorcycle oil for bad weather takes first price
MOTO 4 CRUISE 20W50 – Flexible engine protection for 4-stroke engines.
MOTO 4 ROADSTAR 10W40 – Synthetic-based engine oil designed for faster acceleration and smoother ride.
MOTO 4 ROAD 10W40 – Synthetic-based engine lubricant designed for fewer start-up emissions, a more comfortable ride and protection from clutch slippage.
MOTO 4 ROAD 15W50 – A synthetic-based oil for superior motorcycle superior performance in bad weather, featuring anti-slip clutch technology.
MOTO 4 TECH 10W50 – Innovative synthetic lubricant for improved power, efficiency and engine cleanliness.
MOTO 4 MAXI TECH 10W30 – Next-generation synthetic oil that improves fuel economy, protects engines from wear and deposits and controls clutch friction, all while lasting longer.
MOTO 4 TWIN TECH 20W60 – High-tech synthetic lubricant designed for twin engines, ensuring smooth gear changes, engine component cleanliness and performance.