Re: Clutch help
Posted: Sat Jul 18, 2020 3:59 am
most stuff been covered already
check free play gap, clutch hand lever / to hand lever body .. this Must be right , usually about 5mm at the cable-showing bit, but is sometimes quoted as end of hand lever, by Honda. .. try to adjust it to max gap, see how it works (or not) and then reduce the gap by adjusting. ... sounds simple but clutch wont be right otherwise.
if no difference, try to adjust the free play gap using the main adjuster near the cable end lever on top of the casing. .. if it has an adjuster nut. ... both ends of the cable will then need adjusting again.
if this dont work, or it has no adjusters .. you then need to go inside the casing (I wont mention oil)
there is usually a lever outside the casing, on top, and this needs to be in the correct position .. the shaft it drives can rotate and needs to be set in the correct position (usually) to push the pressure plate fully in (or out on some bikes?)
On my crf250L i followed the honda instructions and it didnt work, as the top lever was now set in the wrong place .. so i just f***kd around with it and hoped for the best (my usual standard of mechanical endeavour) and managed to get it so it worked (sods law in reverse) .. I also checked that little ball thing with a spring, on the push shaft, and put it in the correct position (long side v short side of spring) ..... when it looked like it would work i put it all back together and it Did Work lol
It was in the correct position.
I dont know if this is relevant but it could be ....
((I had altered the starting position of the top lever on the casing))
the rest ... make sure it is all to spec ... like blueprinting .. check all the plates and friction plates, all other plates or judder plates or wotever, re assemble carefully, and make sure the springs are to spec, maybe buy some HD strong springs? .. and adjust the 4 bolts to torque ... wot i do is use hand torque estimate, as it is steel bolts into ali aloy, and going to spec may strip the threads ... i push in the pressure plate a bit to make sure you get full thread length/torque, with being free of pressure from the springs???
i not sure if i is right, just going from memory, but some part of this may help .. good luck
check free play gap, clutch hand lever / to hand lever body .. this Must be right , usually about 5mm at the cable-showing bit, but is sometimes quoted as end of hand lever, by Honda. .. try to adjust it to max gap, see how it works (or not) and then reduce the gap by adjusting. ... sounds simple but clutch wont be right otherwise.
if no difference, try to adjust the free play gap using the main adjuster near the cable end lever on top of the casing. .. if it has an adjuster nut. ... both ends of the cable will then need adjusting again.
if this dont work, or it has no adjusters .. you then need to go inside the casing (I wont mention oil)
there is usually a lever outside the casing, on top, and this needs to be in the correct position .. the shaft it drives can rotate and needs to be set in the correct position (usually) to push the pressure plate fully in (or out on some bikes?)
On my crf250L i followed the honda instructions and it didnt work, as the top lever was now set in the wrong place .. so i just f***kd around with it and hoped for the best (my usual standard of mechanical endeavour) and managed to get it so it worked (sods law in reverse) .. I also checked that little ball thing with a spring, on the push shaft, and put it in the correct position (long side v short side of spring) ..... when it looked like it would work i put it all back together and it Did Work lol
It was in the correct position.
I dont know if this is relevant but it could be ....
((I had altered the starting position of the top lever on the casing))
the rest ... make sure it is all to spec ... like blueprinting .. check all the plates and friction plates, all other plates or judder plates or wotever, re assemble carefully, and make sure the springs are to spec, maybe buy some HD strong springs? .. and adjust the 4 bolts to torque ... wot i do is use hand torque estimate, as it is steel bolts into ali aloy, and going to spec may strip the threads ... i push in the pressure plate a bit to make sure you get full thread length/torque, with being free of pressure from the springs???
i not sure if i is right, just going from memory, but some part of this may help .. good luck