Clutch help

[Brenhden]

Quick miserable update.

Changed the cable out, easy job, made no difference even though the new cable is lovely and smooth.

Drained the oil opened the engine took it all apart and fitted the shiny new springs, put it all back together and gave it a test and now its still bad but now it has a judder too. Next up I'll be putting the old springs back in. Really hoping to take her down to Cornwall end of the month but its not looking good.

[Asgard]

Sorry to state the obvious, but there is free play at clutch actuating lever on the casing?

[Brenhden]

Sorry to state the obvious, but there is free play at clutch actuating lever on the casing?

No there isn't. I'm guessing there should not be?

[Asgard]

There should be a little play but this might not be felt because of the spring on the actuator arm
Look down on the arm whilst pulling the clutch lever it should move a tiny bit before you feel the force of the clutch springs at the lever

[Brenhden]

Will do, thanks for the input everyone

[Snaf MKII]

It may be a silly question but are you using a gasket on the cover or sealer. The tolerance is fairly small with the actuator being on the cover.

[Brenhden]

It may be a silly question but are you using a gasket on the cover or sealer. The tolerance is fairly small with the actuator being on the cover.

There are no silly questions here. It's a gasket.

To be honest I'm a bit unsure how the actuator actually affects the clutch mechanism and engages the clutch...

[Snaf MKII]

There's a cut out in the vertical rod of the side casing that pushes a bush that sits in the bearing on the pressure plate.
When the side casing is off the engine does the actuator turn easy, it might be seized and you're adjusting the cable freeplay to compensate.
You can test this by lying bike on side to save draining oil, loosen casing bolts, disconnect cable and try pulling actuator by hand. It should push the casing away from the crank case, I've done this to separate stuck gaskets in the past.

[Brenhden]

There's a cut out in the vertical rod of the side casing that pushes a bush that sits in the bearing on the pressure plate.
When the side casing is off the engine does the actuator turn easy, it might be seized and you're adjusting the cable freeplay to compensate.
You can test this by lying bike on side to save draining oil, loosen casing bolts, disconnect cable and try pulling actuator by hand. It should push the casing away from the crank case, I've done this to separate stuck gaskets in the past.

Top tip, I'm getting pretty tired of draining the oil...

[garyboy]

https://www.usermanuals.tech/d/honda-xr ... al/part1#1

this is the Honda xr125L service manual .. but it does not show any more info than you have already.
It does show the spring loaded lever shaft into the casing, but not sufficiently .. and the clutch assembly you already have.

just a thought .. being a 125, perhaps the clutch has a weak feel from new .. if it operates ok, even at extended position .. perhaps just leave it?