Adventure Bike Rider Forum

daveuprite wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 10:52 am

zimtim wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 10:46 am Hold clutch
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KTM-125-150- ... OSwHfxeDhW~


sometomes putting bike into top gear and have some hold brake and block rear wheel might do.

Locking engine to TDC with appropriate tool

Try everything Zim has suggested (lock rear wheel, top gear, bind the rear brake on etc), but some people also jam a copper coin (or maybe an old 2p piece) in the gears (where your red arrow ends). Any flat bit of metal of a softer alloy than the gears.

You need to be a bit careful doing the 'lock the wheel' thing.

A wiser man than me (one of the first Honda mechanics in the UK!) once pointed out...the drivetrain is designed to cope with the max torque of the engine, with the rear tyre acting as a shock-absorber, how much torque are you putting through the drivetrain?
Also the force when the bike is running is dynamic rolling the gears, you are imposing is static load on just one or two teeth.

made me think!

A familiar view to me having more than a few air cooled Hondas over the years.
I've always used a 2 pence piece between the primary and clutch gear... does anyone carry loose change anymore?
The filter is a centrifugal one often filled with compacted sludge.

What oil are you using?

Snaf MKII wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 12:57 pm A familiar view to me having more than a few air cooled Hondas over the years.
I've always used a 2 pence piece between the primary and clutch gear... does anyone carry loose change anymore?
The filter is a centrifugal one often filled with compacted sludge.

What oil are you using?

2p makes sense.

Castrol Power 1 Engine Oil 10W-30 4T

I cleaned the sludge out previously when I realised you need a fancy socket to get to the clutch.

Richard Simpson Mark II wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 12:39 pm
You need to be a bit careful doing the 'lock the wheel' thing.

A wiser man than me (one of the first Honda mechanics in the UK!) once pointed out...the drivetrain is designed to cope with the max torque of the engine, with the rear tyre acting as a shock-absorber, how much torque are you putting through the drivetrain?
Also the force when the bike is running is dynamic rolling the gears, you are imposing is static load on just one or two teeth.

made me think!

That tool looks good but you have to have access to the clutch to use it so wouldn't work on this bike.

The engine must be designed to to take the strain of loosening that oil filter nut unless there is a technique I am yet to see.

Maybe if I had more time on my hands I would machine a toothed wedge to fit between the gears so the three teeth on each side took the strain.

Brenhden wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 10:35 am IMG_20200712_145311~2.jpg

I may be wrong but the problem might be that you've got one of the plates out of line or is one meant to be offset.

Brenhden wrote: ↑Mon Jul 13, 2020 9:12 am
I have a XR125L and I'm struggling to get the clutch to improve to a decent standard. It appeared worn with the bite being right at the end of the release. Yesterday I chenged the clutch plate expecting them to be worn and while they were a bit the new ones haven't really changed the feel.
I soaked the new ones before installing and copied the plate order and it looks right enough.

I've adjusted the cable which makes little difference and I'm now out of ideas, what am I missing here please?

The 2012-era Beta I have is renowned for clutch bite issues, although it's hydraulic so maybe not all of these fixes would suit your bike, Bren:

There's a few things that people try:

1) Increase the depth of the washer slightly, to give the whole clutch a bit more throw.

2) Use Motul Transoil - it can help.

3) When it's all back together, line your bike up at 90 degrees to a wall, with the front wheel against the wall. Stick it in first gear and let the clutch out gently about half way with enough revs so that it doesn't stall, but not so many revs that you do a burn out. It needs to bite and want to start to drive but not completely. This kind of burnishes the plates apparently. Don't do it for long - just to get the effect.

4) Make absolutely sure that the free play at the lever is exactly right for your bike.

Just the one oil for engine, clutch and transmission in that engine.

Can you spin it off with an air spanner?

Brendan it's the same as my crf 230 the Honda tool just locks the teeth.