11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

The black art of moving from A to B on foreign soil
BurningGiraffe
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Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

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BurningGiraffe
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Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

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Day18 - 20/05/10
End: Linea de la Conception, Spain (Gibraltar)
78km / 3389km (Day / Total)
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After much procrastination I set off into Algeciras to check out the port and almost chickened out of buying a ferry ticket, but thrashed out a deal with a dodgy ticket seller to Ceuta for tomorrow at Midday.
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I spent the rest of the day doing more sightseeing around Gib, bought some oil, and then went back to the campsite and serviced the bike.

I am just not sure about the legitimacy of my ferry ticket due to communication breakdown with the seller but I will suck it and see - they'll either let me on or not!. Trying not to get too jittery - this feels very scary and a big step into the unknown!
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BurningGiraffe
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Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

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Day19 - 21/05/10
End: Chefchaoen, Morocco
137km / 3526km (Day / Total)

What a crazy day!!  It has been a real rollercoaster ride but probably the best day of the trip so far.

After a plague of nighttime animal visitors attempting to raid my tent for the half eaten cake I had lazily left in the porch overnight I disposed of the now ant ridden confection and set off for the ferry terminal in sweltering heat. After being directed swiftly in and then out as it was too early I finally made it to the booth where I was told that the (return) ticket was valid for. . .  yesterday!! After much tooth sucking and head shaking the guy let me through anyway and I lined up next to a full dress BMW GS at the head of the queue.

Rory and Rachel were from Cambridge on a two week trip to do Morocco (it had taken me that long just to get here!!) and we had a great chat about the joys of motorcycling and our respective trips.

Nothing happened for well over an hour and long past the departure time (25 hours at least!!) and then in less than ten minutes flat the ferry was boarding, loaded and moving!!
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The crossing took much longer than expected and was pretty rough and blowy but I sat outside watching Gibraltar recede and Morocco approach. I saddled up, said goodbye to R&R and was loose in Ceuta. Swiftly guided through the Border formalities by some professional looking unofficial helpers in brown djellabas for a handful of Euros and then I was in Morocco!! Easy!! What a faff over nothing. The Moroccan side of the border was a dump compared to the Spanish side and Ceuta was nothing to write home about!! It felt like the wild west and a little dangerous, particularly when an old Mercedes crossed the central reservation in front of me and nailed a truck!

Head was pounding from the heat though and I needed to get some dirhams so I stopped in Tetouan and got cash, snacks and drink. I was greeted by a bald man in the ubiquitous djellaba riding a Honda Dominator at the traffic lights who welcomed me to his country. Surprisingly he didn't seem to want anything else though and with lifted spirits I rode on towards Chefchaoen, wafting aromatically along a scenic valley of white houses and green fields backed with low but impressively rugged mountainous ridges. Welcome to cannabis country!
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For reasons best not explained I had come to Morocco armed only with a twelve year old and rather obscure guidebook and it led me to the Hotel Rif where a rather homely room with ensuite was aquired for the grand total of £15!!
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Once I had cooled down with a shower and some Ibuprofen I set off to see the town and it's famed blue medina. It was pleasantly touristy but not at all pushy and I was enticed into a restaurant for a fine meal of salad, lamb tagine, cake and mint tea, plus several bottles of the ubiquitous orange Fanta. When the bill for 50Dh arrived I nearly spat a lung!! 50Dh!! It was then that my brain kicked into currency exchange mode and I realised it was a grand total of £4!! I had a laugh with the proprietor about it and apologised for my brain still working in Euros!

Back in the Hotel Rif it quietened down at about 10pm and I reflected on this excellent day, especially after all of my worries about it came to naught. Welcome to Morocco!!
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BurningGiraffe
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Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

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Tonibe63
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Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

Post by Tonibe63 »

Loving it, bringing back memories of my first trip.
Keep it coming 8-)
Open your eyes and you see what is in front of you, open your mind and you see a bigger picture but open your heart and you see a whole new World.
BurningGiraffe
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Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

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Day 20 - 22/05/10
End Location: Azrou, Morocco
Days Mileage: 203
Total Mileage: 2406

If I thought yesterday was a crazy day. . .

Woke at half eight, a quick hose down in the shower / cupboard / WC and then breakfast. My helpful guide Abdul was waiter for breakfast and very blatantly asked if I could tip him directly as the boss would keep the money for himself. Twenty dirhams later (about £1.50) Abdul was happy and I was off.

After friendly toots from two spanish dirtbikers in rallye gear I rode out of town and stopped to take a photo when who should roll up but Rory and Rachel from the ferry yesterday. We had a chat about our experiences so far and they seemed a little dazed by it all (although I am sure they though the same of me). They were going to do the Ketama route whereas I was heading to Volubilis via Ouzzane although their general planned route through Morocco was similar to mine.

In increasing heat I followed a nice winding road along the course of a river until I came to a traffic jam with vehicles parked every which way. The cause was apparent as over a high narrow footbridge there was a shambolic market Iin full swing. I soon realised that the stalls were grouped by type, with a row of block built butchers stalls next to a lot of worried looking animals. Every sort of commerce seemed to be represented even down to a guy fixing a DVD player on his knees under a tree.
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Against my judgement I had to remove my riding jacket; it was just cooking me alive. Once I had divested myself of it's bulk I was gloriously cool on the bike but wary of the potential for injury should I lay the bike down. It was dubious protection and a migraine or neither. Easy choice.

However the frequent stops meant lots of interaction with the locals. The main difference from Europe so far was the fact that EVERYONE wanted to talk to me, or at least check out my bike. Groups of teenagers would lovingly stroke it's flanks like some hotshit custom Harley, despite it being one of the nailiest trailbikes ever to turn a wheel! They would point at the (admittedly ambitious) 160km/h on the speedo and whistle through their teeth in disbelief at the incredible numbers! My appalling schoolboy french makes me feel almost fluent compared to my experiences in Spain.
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Along a lovely grassy valley and without the jacket I made the acquaintance of the 'paintball' bug which leaves a welt and a big yellow splatter when it hits you. Disgusting. In addition the vents on the helmet seemed to duct any passing small insects directly into my ears which meant frequent stops to whip my helmet off and shaking / probing to dislodge the infuriating flies tyrying to burrow into my head.

I stopped for supplies at a small village that seemed almost entirely devoted to fixing farm machines and trucks, and was mobbed by the filthiest kids I have ever seen - literally black with grease and oil. But then the adults here looked much the same. Learning the trade I suppose.

On arriving at the roman ruins of Volubilis I set off to explore what looked initially like just a field of rocks but the more I walked the more impressive it seemed, with the size and quality of the remains better than any Roman city I have been to before (Rome excluded). If this were in Britain this would be a national treasure but here it just seemed a little neglected, probably through lack of funds. The mosaics in particular were awesome but were left uncovered and open to the elements. Astonishing.
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Back on the bike and heading through Meknes when the weather turned again and I pushed on past the rather slow local traffic into Azrou with the setting sun to find what looked like the whole town thronging the streets - Saturday night. I was swiftly directed to the excellent Hotel d'Cedre and tucked into the phenomenally good 4 course menu de touristique - Soup, fish in breadcrumbs, steak frites and creme caramel. With two bottles of Fanta it was 100Dh (£7.80). I must have been ravenous as I wolfed it all down in a flash.

After a wander through the crowds to check out the town and buy some water I retired with another excellent Moroccan day behind me. And I thought yesterday was a crazy day!!
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BurningGiraffe
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Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

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pillars
pillars
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mosaic
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arch
arch
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BurningGiraffe
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Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

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Day 21 - 23/05/10
End Location: Midelt, Morocco
Days Mileage: 150
Total Mileage: 2556

I awoke to a lovely warm morning and after a relaxed breakfast I reclaimed my bike from the other side of the square and loaded up. Upset the receptionist by trying to pay with a Dh200 note and then took a quick walk up to the top of the rock outcrop overlooking the plaza, embellished with a large metal crown structure. Unfortunately I had discovered where all those revellers of last night had opted to defecate with human turds literally and liberally covering the trail up to the top.

A quick fuel stop and then up towards the cedar forests and the Gouraud Cedar. After several failed attempts and a few miles off road I encoutered a french hippy who had apparently been at the first Isle of Wight festival back in 1970 who pointed me in the right direction. Unfortunately the cedar, once I had found it , was dead! Again my 10 year old guidebook works its magic.
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Moving onwards along the route touristique du cedres I found an off road track lined with white rocks which led me miles out into the forest. I stopped to ask directions of a passing shepherd and realised that we were being watched by dozens or barbary apes; much less bold than those on Gibraltar. I tempted them to approach by throwing some apples out which they seemed to like. A very magical experience to see them so close in a more natural habitat.
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Back on the bike I stopped to give some fuel to a stranded moped rider which was fortuitous as he then stopped for me five miles down the road when my bike suddenly ground to a halt. 'No electrics' was the conclusion of a quick investigation so it was a strip-down to access the battery and loom. No visible issues but when re-assembled it seemed to work properly again. I was destined to meet this particular gremlin again!
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The road south gradually climbed into the mountains through lovely and varied terrain culminating at a lovely alpine meadow where I stopped to extract a wasp from my shirt. As I hopped and swatted merrily a yound lad followed by his younger brother and mother appeared from a makeshift hut just below the road. They were very pleased to have a sit on the bike and I gave them 10Dh each and a wafer biscuit. Their home was made from logs turf and plastic fertiliser bags and I felt conspicuously wealthy. Should I give something? Would it really make any difference? Fortunately a brand new moroccan registered landcruiser drove past to add a bit of perspective. Sobering never the less. But what a life so close to Europe.

Riding down into the first really desertified terrain I rolled into Midelt just as the sun was setting. Gained a new best friend and guide / fixer in Kasseem who seemed a little false from the off but he helped me find a hotel, a place to store the bike, somewhere to eat and cackhandedly made me mint tea.

Of course I was invited to see his carpet shop and despite my protestations that didn't want to buy one he set to with a vengeance. His enthusiasm was shortlived after I countered his starting price of £400 with a counter offer of £15! I don't think he had encountered such crass stingyness before and was furious, despite his previous assertion that there was no obligation and he would respect whatever offer I made. His brother was failing to hide his sniggers over 'the master salesman' drawing a blank and I was unceremoniously ejected into the darkened street.

Fortunately I had made sure I knew the way back to the hotel but it left a bad taste all the same. And Morocco had been so fabulous until this point. All dreams lead to an awakening.
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BurningGiraffe
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Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

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BurningGiraffe
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Re: 11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

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Day22 - 24/05/10
End Location: Erg Chebbi, Morocco
Days Mileage: 168
Total Mileage: 2724

Slept badly mulling over who was more stupid; Kasseem or I. Tipped the lad who helped me locate the garage where my bike was stored but fuck all for the proprietor who was clearly in cahoots with Kasseem. A mate of Kasseem's sidled up and tried to sell me an ammonite for my brother but I great delight in pointing out that my brother is dead and thus didn't have much use for one. Midelt - the town of pushy salesmen. Actually the fossils were very nice but I was still too pissed of at Kasseem to entertain any more hard sells.

I rescued a tortoise from the road and moved it to the verge where it defecated and then buried itself under a bush. No gratitude.
Ziz
Ziz
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The road initially was dull winding tarmac up onto another plateau but soon opened out into real desert and the Ziz gorge. The river Ziz flows out into the desert and then dissappears into the sand, never reaching a body of water. The road was spectatcular and I stopped numerous times for pictures but as it was the middle of the day the sun was overhead and not ideal. I also saw a genuine camel train crossing one of the open plains but didn't stop as I assumed it would be the first of many. Nope! A missed opportunity.
Bike
Bike
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In addition the heat was unbearable. The map showed two panoramic views but the terrain was so stark and the sun so strong I just had to push on. The final stretch from Erachidia to Erfoud was like riding with your head in an oven. It was cooler with the visor down to keep the heat out. I have never experienced heat like it. Certainly over 40 degrees C.
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After a 7km dash across a plain of loose dusty stones towards the distant dunes I arrived at the Kasbah Erg Chebbi. Showered to cool myself down before hitting the dunes at sundown to takes some pics then back for a lovely tagine then another shower. I lay on my bed sweltering, stark naked with all of the windows open and was still drenched in sweat. WIth hindsight a night out in the dunes would doubtless have been much more pleasant and as memorable but in a nicer way. Back to the mountains tomorrow. This is just too hot.
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