11th anniversary of Europe and Morocco trip - Review

[BurningGiraffe]

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[BurningGiraffe]

Day 8 - 10/05/10
End - Sabananigo, Spain
88km / 1648km (Day / Total)

Today's goal was to visit the Ordesa National Park. This is literally the other side of the mountain from the Cirque de Gavarnie - less than 10km as the crow flies but 180km by road!

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I ended up hiking the whole way to the top of the gorge, motorcycling gear and all, which took 6 hours in total. Stunning scenery all the way and a series of impressive waterfalls as the stream tumbled the length of the gorge, falling hundreds of metres in the process.

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On returning to the bike I was so tired I could barely stand and as the ubiquitous deluge rolled in I missed my turning going out of the gorge! I put out a foot to pivot the bike and it just gave way, dropping both the bike and myself to the floor, breaking the clutch lever off in the perch! Bastard!

With rain running from my lid I tried in vain to get it into gear without stalling, but ended up pushing it half a mile until I had enough slope to bump it into gear. Drenched with rain and sweating profusely I took shelter under a carport in the first village and was scoped out by a pair of passing traffic cops as I fitted a new lever. At least I had brought the right spares but would need to find another as the broken item was utterly useless. I finished the repair and I returned to the campsite cursing my stupidity, the relentless rain and pretty much anything else that came to mind.

[BurningGiraffe]

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[BurningGiraffe]

Day 9 - 11/05/10
End - Ablitas, Spain
252km / 1900km (Day / Total)

I awake to glorious sunshine and travel on to Jaca to stock up on supplies. However, I am feeling a bit isolated and can't be bothered to check out the town itself, even though it's supposed to be interesting. I speak no spanish beyond Hola and Gracias which makes conversations a little short and tedious!

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Out of the Pyrenhees now although it is still hilly. Visited the monasteries at San Juan de la Pena but again, couldn't summon the enthusiasm to tour the new monastery, given the relative busy-ness.

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Passed some huge crags surrounded by vultures that the map refers to as les Mallos. Truly awesome monoliths, towering above the village of Riglos. My goal was the Castillo de Loarre which was closing soon so I had to forgo climbing to the top for the view (which I now regret - maybe next time). The Castle was photogenic, interesting and very intact, but full of teenagers on coach trips, laughing and enjoying themselves, increasing my isolation. I had a conversation with a mexican lady photographer at the cafe but it didn't lighten my mood.

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Pushing on I streaked through the Badlands of the Bardenas Reales de Navarra and was ambushed by the rain and dusk, necessitating pitching my tent in a pine wood alongside some olive groves. Feeling lonely, worried about being harassed for free camping, and fed up with wet weather - right here and now this seems like an ordeal rather than a holiday!

[BurningGiraffe]

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[WillS]

Nice photos.
April /May in the Pyrénées can be very mixed. Some passes / cols are not open until sometime in June. It's clearing the snow and repairing the roads from the many avalanches. Weather can be all 4 seasons in a couple of days. Still having snowfalls at altitude!!
The Cirque de Gavarnie is a spectacular place to visit. A good walk in Motorcycle boots and gear!!
Did the Morocco trip in 2013 and 2014.
Looking forward to seeing the photos and how you got on in Morocco. Great place.....

[BurningGiraffe]

Day 10 - 12/5/10
End - El Burgo de Osma 
190km / 2090km (Day / Total)

On exiting my tent I find fresh 4wd tracks on the track to the wood - someone had been to investigate my tent but hadn't disturbed me. Today I am determined to break my Spanish jinx and stop at the first two towns to engage with people.

Soria

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Outside Soria the weather takes another turn for the worse and I seek shelter in the Church of San Saturio, a 6th century hermit. I spend a pleasant hour wandering the rock-cut rooms and tunnels with a party of middle aged spaniards until the custodian herds us out into the rain and locks the door.

Market

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After an arse-clenching misreading of the traffic signals in the town centre, where all of the traffic crossing the intersection i am going ahead on all start crossing at the same time as me, I am back on the road, in the rain.

I program the satnav to take me to the nearest town avoiding motorways and it immediately leads me straight onto a motorway just as the rain gets switched from steady to torrential! Unable to stop or turn off, and at the mercy of speeding trucks creating clouds of spray, I ride 7 miles to the next exit and then pull off and stop in the the flyover underpass. For several solid minutes I scream obscenities at the idiotic satnav, the biblical downpour, everything Spanish and my own fucking stupidity for embarking on this ridiculous trip. What the fuck was I thinking? The satnav is only saved from being dashed to the ground and stamped on by the barest realisation that I might still benefit from it.

River

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I eventually calm down and follow the signs to the nearest town - El Burgo de Osma. I stop at a cafe and sit dripping, eating some random thing selected from an indecipherable menu until I have warmed up and calmed down.

Back on the bike I have gone no more than 500 metres when I see, in quick succession a castle, a hilltop tower, a cathedral and most appealingly a hotel. No camping for me tonight!! Luxury, warmth and dryness await!! And all for €39. I am not leaving until the rain stops!

[BurningGiraffe]

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[BurningGiraffe]

Day11 - 13/05/10
End: Segovia, Spain
140km / 2230km (Day / Total)

Why did I persist with camping so long in such shitty weather? A night in a hotel has massively improved my spirits and dried my gear. Apart from my boots which smell like death and rot!

Unfortunately just as I set off the rain started again and this time it was cold too. My journey to Segovia proceeded in small chunks as I could do no more than a few miles before my fingers were frozen. I stopped at every town and petrol station just to thaw out.

Tower and Sphinx

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In the village of La Rades I staggered into the cafe and was almost mothered to death by the woman behind the counter, including bringing out a gas fire to put next to me.We attempted to communicate for some time but all I understood was that she was half Romanian and hates Italians. I left her arguing with her husband, presumably about how they will never get rich if they provide half an hours use of a gas fire and four coffees for €1.10!!

Crowds and aquaduct

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Eventually I struggled into Segovia and, at  5°C, hit the hotels again. Finally the skies cleared and I struggled for over an hour to find the famous aquaduct, only to follow it to within 50 metres of my hotel!!

Aquaduct Long

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[BurningGiraffe]

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