Day 20 - 22/05/10
End Location: Azrou, Morocco
Days Mileage: 203
Total Mileage: 2406
If I thought yesterday was a crazy day. . .
Woke at half eight, a quick hose down in the shower / cupboard / WC and then breakfast. My helpful guide Abdul was waiter for breakfast and very blatantly asked if I could tip him directly as the boss would keep the money for himself. Twenty dirhams later (about £1.50) Abdul was happy and I was off.
After friendly toots from two spanish dirtbikers in rallye gear I rode out of town and stopped to take a photo when who should roll up but Rory and Rachel from the ferry yesterday. We had a chat about our experiences so far and they seemed a little dazed by it all (although I am sure they though the same of me). They were going to do the Ketama route whereas I was heading to Volubilis via Ouzzane although their general planned route through Morocco was similar to mine.
In increasing heat I followed a nice winding road along the course of a river until I came to a traffic jam with vehicles parked every which way. The cause was apparent as over a high narrow footbridge there was a shambolic market Iin full swing. I soon realised that the stalls were grouped by type, with a row of block built butchers stalls next to a lot of worried looking animals. Every sort of commerce seemed to be represented even down to a guy fixing a DVD player on his knees under a tree.
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Against my judgement I had to remove my riding jacket; it was just cooking me alive. Once I had divested myself of it's bulk I was gloriously cool on the bike but wary of the potential for injury should I lay the bike down. It was dubious protection and a migraine or neither. Easy choice.
However the frequent stops meant lots of interaction with the locals. The main difference from Europe so far was the fact that EVERYONE wanted to talk to me, or at least check out my bike. Groups of teenagers would lovingly stroke it's flanks like some hotshit custom Harley, despite it being one of the nailiest trailbikes ever to turn a wheel! They would point at the (admittedly ambitious) 160km/h on the speedo and whistle through their teeth in disbelief at the incredible numbers! My appalling schoolboy french makes me feel almost fluent compared to my experiences in Spain.
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Along a lovely grassy valley and without the jacket I made the acquaintance of the 'paintball' bug which leaves a welt and a big yellow splatter when it hits you. Disgusting. In addition the vents on the helmet seemed to duct any passing small insects directly into my ears which meant frequent stops to whip my helmet off and shaking / probing to dislodge the infuriating flies tyrying to burrow into my head.
I stopped for supplies at a small village that seemed almost entirely devoted to fixing farm machines and trucks, and was mobbed by the filthiest kids I have ever seen - literally black with grease and oil. But then the adults here looked much the same. Learning the trade I suppose.
On arriving at the roman ruins of Volubilis I set off to explore what looked initially like just a field of rocks but the more I walked the more impressive it seemed, with the size and quality of the remains better than any Roman city I have been to before (Rome excluded). If this were in Britain this would be a national treasure but here it just seemed a little neglected, probably through lack of funds. The mosaics in particular were awesome but were left uncovered and open to the elements. Astonishing.
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Back on the bike and heading through Meknes when the weather turned again and I pushed on past the rather slow local traffic into Azrou with the setting sun to find what looked like the whole town thronging the streets - Saturday night. I was swiftly directed to the excellent Hotel d'Cedre and tucked into the phenomenally good 4 course menu de touristique - Soup, fish in breadcrumbs, steak frites and creme caramel. With two bottles of Fanta it was 100Dh (£7.80). I must have been ravenous as I wolfed it all down in a flash.
After a wander through the crowds to check out the town and buy some water I retired with another excellent Moroccan day behind me. And I thought yesterday was a crazy day!!